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In between the Apuan Alps and the coast, in northern Tuscany, the jewel is Candalla. Here, among ruins and fig-scented woodlands, the Lombricese stream runs over waterfalls and between natural pools. A trail starts from the old mill of Candalla, and follows the stream on a tempting route through an enchanted valley with many places to stop, dive and relax in the shade of the beautiful woods.
The wine is Chianti Classico. Not to be confused with other types of Chianti wine, the Classico label is applied to wine from a more restricted area of production. It is governed by a strict set of rules around both production and distribution, something we discover when we move (easily) on to our second bottle.
To bookend this walk not just with two famous – and diverse – Tuscan cities but also with the stunning arches that acted as the final conduits for some grand and impressive architecture that provided such an essential and public good, helped me remember that the things we take for granted today were once grand visions and that required innovation and imagination.
